Flip Side of PK Gopalkrishna

Purshottam Kallupatti Gopalkrishna is a very adorable and at times an enigmatic character. Over a period of time, people around him who were unable to remember or pronounce his long name, had shortened it to ‘P K’. The name suited him. If I remember correctly my last encounter with PK was during the dreaded Covid days.

(https://wordpress.com/post/samundarbaba.travel.blog/4974)

In the meantime, both of PK’s sons decided to emigrate permanently to the US of A. PK and his good lady now spend considerable time with their children and grandchildren. This has resulted in less ‘India’ time and decreased our frequency of interaction, both at home and during evening walks. Whenever we meet, I find a slightly modified PK. He is now into following US politics and more comfortable talking about Trump and Harris. He has become slow with age, unhurried in his movements and sometimes exhibits a feeling of disappointment which is otherwise well disguised.

PK has never been the forthcoming type, volunteering unsolicited information. He is careful with his words and chooses his time and place to unburden. However, within a close knit group, he is very open and eager to share his thoughts. He once mentioned to me that sharing information is therapeutic.   

When probed further he came out with the truth. He did not like going to his children’s place for extended periods of time. In his own house in Bangalore, he was the undisputed king of his domain. Free as a bird, he ruled his province according to his whims and fancy. Bangalore boasted of an equitable climate throughout the year which enabled him to dress lightly and go on long walks   in the colony along with his cronies. He would spend a lot of his time sitting under the tree and engaging in harmless discussions with his mates. Being a foodie, he would often indulge in eating out in the many restaurants that had come up in his neighbourhood. These activities had given PK a sense of belongingness, familiarity and wellbeing. In particular, PK made it a ritual to join other tipplers at his club to quench his thirst on a weekly basis. All this was denied to him in the ‘Land of Opportunity’. A misnomer indeed.

From his deportment I concluded that good old PK was very eager to unburden himself with some more precious information. PK liked the idea of travelling, mingling with his military course mates, indulging in easy banter and reminiscence about the ‘good old days’. PK often said ‘travel broadens one’s horizon’. His military buddies were planning a Course Get Together (CGT) in the Orange County resort tucked away in the lush green hills in the Kodagu district of Karnataka.

With a certain amount of hesitancy, PK informed us that travelling posed a very big problem. He said there were two issues. The gist of it was that over the years, PK had been afflicted with ‘throat snoring’ – the loudest form of snoring that there is! This serious affliction was very irritating and disturbing to the LOH. Over the years they had reached a compromise and decided to sleep in separate bedrooms. This strategy had brought untold happiness into their household. However, when one travels, one is forced to stay in a hotel, which means sharing the room with the jack hammer. This one aspect of travel was unacceptable to the LOH in spite of being a good sport and an avid traveller.

Now to convince the LOH to undertake a holiday was a perilous task for PK.

Secondly, PK was jinxed when it came to holiday travel. This aspect also weighed very heavily on the LOH’s psyche. To fully comprehend PK’s plight it is important to become acquainted with some of his travel-related misadventures.

Many moons ago he and the LOH had travelled to Jakarta, Indonesia for a CGT. PK was eagerly looking forward to a ten-day holiday with his forty close childhood buddies. On arrival at the Jakarta Soekarno-Hatta International Airport, PK joined a long queue to complete his immigration formalities. There after he proceeded to the duty free shop enclosure to buy some ‘elixir’ for the trip. At the cash counter he was greeted by a vivacious young lady with an unusually pretty countenance. He was momentarily discomposed. Having completed his payment, the party travelled in a bus to their Hotel. On arrival, he went to complete the check-in formalities. The person at the desk asked PK for his passport. He frantically searched all his pockets and bags but could not find his passport. Panic was writ all over his face. The hotel staff were very helpful and assured PK that his document would be retrieved from the Duty Free shop and in the meantime he could move into his room. PK entered his room crestfallen along with a very embarrassed LOH.

They rested for a while and matters looked normal. At the appointed time, PK decided to join the others in the lobby for the first part of their trip. He tried to open the door from the inside but it would not. Both of them tried opening it several times in vain. Even repeatedly shouting ‘Open Sesame” did not yield any result. By then, the reception staff were making frantic calls to the room to enquire about the delay. The hotel engineering staff were summoned to resolve the issue as others in the pack waited in the lobby. On making no progress, the staff broke open the door and salvaged PK and the LOH. Red in the face, they reached the lobby to join the others for a ‘Jakarta by Night’ tour. All were accounted for and ready for the sightseeing tour.

Unknown to PK and the gang a catastrophic event had just struck Bali, Indonesia. The day was 27 November 2017. The volcano Mount Agung in Bali had erupted. As a precautionary measure, the government of Indonesia ordered all tourists to return to their countries post haste.

The tour manager collected the gang in one corner and spilled the bad news.

There ended PK’s Bali adventure.

Some years ago, PK and the LOH had gone to Goa to attend a similar CGT. This time around PK had decided to enjoy the outing to the hilt. Goa suited PK. It reflected his buoyant and bubbly temperament. He soon settled down to absorb the sun and sand along with some chilled beer. More than anything else PK adored sea food. Well, late into the afternoon, PK turned his attention to food and ordered Goa’s most popular fish ’Mackerel Recheado’ a spicy, tangy, shallow fried fish that is a traditional Goan dish. Having been deprived of this hot favourite of his for a very long time, PK started demolishing the fish and wolfed it down in record-breaking time. All of a sudden PK started to choke and started making strange sounds. Fortunately his close buddy Doresamy immediately realised PK was choking and went into action.

PK had to be taken to the nearest doctor to remove the fish bone from his throat. So ended PK’s tryst with Goa.

Not long ago PK and the LOH decided to visit their children in the US. Preparations were made in advance, many WhatsApp messages were exchanged and curry powder, masalas and papadams were purchased and packed. There was an air of celebratory anticipation in the house. The flight to Paris continued along the expected lines.PK had his dinner and went to sleep. In the second leg of their passage, breakfast was served which PK ate with total relish. Soon after PK felt uncomfortable and complained to the LOH about a nagging pain in the lower part of his chest. As the condition worsened, the LOH reported the matter to the airhostess who in turn informed the pilot. An announcement was made seeking help from any doctor on board. A paramedic volunteered to examine PK. Nothing conclusive emerged from the examination and the paramedic strongly recommended a medical intervention immediately on landing in Paris.

The French medical response was at its best. Within minutes of landing PK was evacuated and taken to the hospital. A series of tests were conducted and PK was cleared with a discharge slip declaring that it had been a ‘case of severe indigestion’.

The LOH ended up paying a huge sum towards the emergency medical expenses.

Now you may appreciate why PK is apprehensive about the forthcoming get together and their participation in it.

Hidden Jewel Of Asia – Uzbekistan

The day before we embarked on our journey to Uzbekistan ,I went to collect a document from my hospital. I was desperately trying to get it over with, as I had lots of last minute errands to run. The doctor in the office asked me why I was in such a tearing hurry. I told her ‘I am leaving for Uzbekistan tomorrow. Surprised, the doctor asked, ‘Where is Uzbekistan? I have never heard of such a place!’ This is the extent to which the country of Uzbekistan is hidden. Normally, travel means going to America, Europe, Wild Africa and the Exotic Far East. A country,  somewhere in Central Asia, is unlikely to attract the attention of a normal tourist.

Google will provide you with all the usual information such as its size, weight, length, breadth,  age, history and much more. I leave it to you to browse the net and  fill in the details.

In our stay of 10 days, we visited Khiva, Bukhara, Samarkand and Tashkent. Four of us  – self, wife, daughter and son – in – law – travelled extensively by car from one place to another. I love travelling by car for many reasons. Firstly, it is very private and comfortable. You can stop where and when you want. It’s door to door, no check in ,waiting in airports, railway stations, lugging suitcases etc. We are not unnecessarily time bound. You can talk endlessly with the local driver, watch the country side unfolding as you travel and so on.

The Family

Khiva was first a sea, many aeons ago and then a desert with many lakes. As a result many of the lakes are salty. The soil is not suitable for plants but we saw a large number of flowering plants everywhere. We were told that the soils has to be washed and cleaned before anything can be gown. So, they plant fully grown flowering plants and change them when they wither away. Most of the madrasas which are beautifully tiled in hues of blue and green, have been turned into hotels. We were fortunate to have stayed inside the citadel area. Walking around this charming citadel, you get to see amazing sights; a huge kiln where a variety of bread is being baked, (we ate one hot off the oven and it was mouth wateringly delicious), shops selling long Ikat kaftans, traditional puppets and wonderful glazed blue pottery.  

Ichan Kala Khiva

In Bukhara, we saw Job’s mausoleum, a unique structure. Here, interesting bit of trivia, Job is called Ayub. A miniature artist  painted flawless miniatures as he sat selling his work, and the intricately carved knives reminded one of the mystique of these ancient places along the old silk route.


Bukhara Old City View

In Samarkhand,our favourite place was the Shikhar Zinda, which also has the fabulously carved gates of Jannat; a peaceful place filled with a holy, almost spiritual aura.

Variety of fresh vegetables
Puppets – Popular Handicraft

Babur, founder of the “Moghul Empire” was born on 14 February 1483 in the city of Andijan, Fergana Valley, contemporary Uzbekistan. Located 350 Km East of Tashkent.

The people speak Uzbek, Russian and Tajik. English is very rare and one has to use Google translator frequently. Be prepared. My Russian which I picked up 45 years back was quite rusty. When I tried speaking, it often caused laughter and great amusement  but it came in handy and helped to break  the ice.

Bukhara by Night

The most striking feature of  Uzbekistan is their cleanliness. Starting with Khiva which is a one horse town to Samarkand and Tashkent, their towns and cities are extremely clean and well maintained. I did not find a single cigarette butt or any kind of litter on their roads, market places, restaurants and parks The towns are beautifully well laid out with broad roads, walkways, with long avenues of tall trees, innumerable parks and gardens. The city landscape is dotted with stately buildings from the Soviet era to modern post independence structures. The overall image is one of meticulous town planning, with care taken to maintain absolute cleanliness. It was a pleasure seeing an Asian country (both its urban and rural areas) surpass any Western one. It is very rare to find policemen on their streets.

Tashkent Main Road

Dustbins have been placed everywhere in the city,prompting the public to drop the litter in them.This idea ,I am told was introduced a decade ago and it has benefited everyone.The result is visible. All their drains are well maintained and clean. It was a pleasure to see a well laid out and absolutely clean drainage system.

Important city landmarks are lit up every night and this makes for an amazing sky line . There are also decorative lights all along the main roads that add to the beauty of the city at night, especially in Tashkent.

City Lit Up

I did not see any beggars during our stay. The existence of a joint family system ensures that all the members of the family are looked after. Social responsibility extends to housing, feeding and clothing the less fortunate,the infirm and the aged. There are no stray animals to be seen anywhere.

A happy old man

The Uzbeks are an extremely proud and honest people. They refuse any tips if they feel they have not earned it. I found them very polite and helpful in their interactions.

Their remarkable cuisine, of course, deserves a mention. Kebabs, Plov (Pulav), Achichuk (Tomato Onion Salad), Samsa (Samosa) , Manty (Dumplings), Lagman (Meat Curry) ,Shivit Oshi (Green Noodles) are just some dishes of their cuisine that are worth trying. They also have a variety of the most delicious breads that I have ever tasted!Their restaurants offer fine dining in every sense of the word. The cost is extremely reasonable. Alcohol is easily available and is inexpensive when compared to Bangalore. You must try their Cognac.

Uzbekistan is reputed to be the most peaceful country among all the Stans.

GM’s Chevrolet cars dominate the streets. 94% of their cars sold in 2022 were Chevrolets. It’s very rare that one sees two or three wheelers on their streets. Taxi apps such as Yandex provide very good service. It’s faster and cheaper than our Uber.

Bollywood and their heroes and heroines are hot currency. Raj Kapoor, Amitabh Bachchan, Rishi Kapoor and the Khans are very popular and so is Mithun Chakraborty! Uzbeks have a special corner for Indians as they love Bollywood movies.

Our routine was very simple; we would go on  a guided tour till 2pm and  thereafter unwind in one of their good joints over chilled beer,salads and delectable Uzbek fare. After a refreshing siesta we were ready once again to explore the culinary scene. There are a number of good restaurants to choose from. It helps to do a bit of research and select. The weather in mid April was just right – not too cold or too hot, with just anip in the air in the mornings and late evenings.

It is very simple to obtain an  e Visa on line. The procedure is smooth. It is issued on line and sent by email after a week or so. Uzbek airways provides good connectivity from Delhi and internally.

At the end of 10 days we had seen all that had to be seen,thoroughly enjoyed Uzbek hospitality and returned home with very happy experiences.

We were very fortunate to engage ‘Advantour.Com’ – tour operators specializing in Central Asia Silk Road travel for all our logistics and travel arrangements. Special thanks to Shavkat Khodjaev, Alyona Kovalyova, Farrukh Khalmurzaev, Marat Askarov for coordinating our travel.

They did a wonderful job and met all our requirements. Talkative Kamal drove us from Khiva to Bukhara and to Samarkand. He spoke non stop in Uzbek. It was totally one sided. Daler took us from Samarkand to Tashkent. He spoke in broken English and was able to communicate well with us.

We were provided three pleasant and knowledgeable English speaking guides. Mrs Saida in Khiva, Mrs Mahsuma in Bukhara and  Mrs Valentina in Samarkand. All of them were a storehouse of information, stories and anecdotes. All in all, they made our city tours extremely interesting and kept us engaged throughout the time we were with them.