Author: bloggerpubs

Captain MV Prabhakar is an alumnus of National Defence Academy. He was commissioned in the Indian Navy on 01 Jan 1970. He is a graduate of the Defence Services Staff College, Wellington and completed his post graduation at the Collage of Naval Warfare, Mumbai. He participated in the 1971 Indo Pak war and IPKF operations in Sri Lanka in 1989.After retirement from the navy he worked in MACMET Technologies Limited, Bangalore/CAE India developing simulators for the Indian Defence Forces. He is married to Jayanti who is an educationalist. They have a son and daughter and four grandchildren. Pubs is a keen golfer and loves cooking. He also spends time looking after the garden.He is a avid traveler and blogger.

We Visited ‘SALAR DE UYUNI’ salt flats of Bolivia 11 to 13 May

Back to blogging after a long time ……..

After a very relaxing stay in Lake Titicaca we drove back to La Paz and spent a delightful evening at the hotel. Very early next morning we took a flight to Uyuni, located 410 Km South of La Paz. Uyuni is a small town situated in the middle of nowhere which acts as a staging post for tourists visiting the salt flats. Tourism is the main source of income.
We booked with the ‘Red Planet Expeditions’ for our three days tour of the salt flats. Salar de Uyuni is part of the Altiplano of Bolivia. The Altiplano is a high plateau, which was formed during uplift of the Andes Mountains. The plateau includes fresh and saltwater lakes as well as salt flats and is surrounded by mountains with no drainage outlets.


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Visiting salt flat was a major item in our must do list. Friends who had visited the Salt flats had cautioned us about the extreme conditions under which we have to travel. Uyuni is located at a height of 12,000 ft and the tour reaches a height of 16,600 ft. In addition to the omnipresent altitude sickness we had to face sub zero temperature and extremely strong wind. Due to its desolate and remote location, the Red Planet had warned us in advance about our extremely basic accommodation and food.

Four of us and two youngsters from Netherlands travelled together in a Toyota land cruiser. After an extensive briefing we departed Uyuni. The salt flats are one endless sea of salt covering a mind blogging 10,582 square kilometers. It is covered by a few meters of salt crust, which has an extraordinary flatness with the average elevation variations within one meter over the entire area of the Salar. The crust serves as a source of salt and covers a pool of brine, which is exceptionally rich in Lithium. It contains 50 to 70% of the world’s known lithium reserves. The Salar is virtually devoid of any wildlife or vegetation. The only vegetation that can be seen is the giant cacti reaching up to 40 feet.  On a still day, the thin layer of water covering the salt forms a giant mirror reflecting the sky.

Travelling endlessly from one attraction to another was an integral part of our visit. In all we covered 1400Km of salt flats in three days. We stayed in houses entirely built with salt bricks, including the dining tables, chairs and beds. We chewed lots of coca leaves to overcome high altitude sickness, drank endless amount of water and ate very frugally throughout our stay. Sleeping was yet another big issue. In spite of four layers of clothing, blanket and a sleeping bag, nights were unbearable. The mirror like flat surface gave us unlimited opportunity for trick photography.  The temperature varied from +5 to – 4 deg C. The strong wind tears into your body. One must always park your car facing the wind or risk your door being blown away with the wind as one tries to get out of the car. I endured a bit of gum bleeding at 16,600 ft on top of an extinct volcano. We were able to frequently sight the local animal life – James Flamingo, Culpeo. Llama and Alpaca. Incidentally James Bond film “Quantum of Solace” was extensively filmed in the Salt Flats.

The most fascinating aspect of our trip was the images of snow capped mountains, hills in various hues of colours entrapped between clear blue skies and the salt flats. Watching sunset and gazing at the star filled night sky also kept us busy.

In spite of all the hardship, visit to the salt flats was a rare and memorable experience.

Day 1


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“Great Train Graveyard” 

Uyuni has long been known as an important transportation hub in South America and it connects several major cities. In the early 19th century, big plans were made to build an even bigger network of trains out of Uyuni, but the project was abandoned because of a combination of technical difficulties and tension with neighboring countries. The trains and other equipment were left to rust and fade out of memory.


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>3<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> At the graveyard


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>4<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> Getting Cozy


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>5<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> Sushama all excited


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>6<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Rail tracks to nowhere


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Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>8<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Alpacas grazing

Colchani to witness how the salt is processed. 

Colchani is a tiny, one street town situated on the edge of the Tunupa Salt Flat, 80 km (50 miles) northwest of Uyuni. The only salt-making facilities using salt from the Salar de Uyuni are located in Colchani – a cooperative joint-owned by all salt workers. There is an estimated 10 billion tonnes of salt contained in the Salar de Uyuni, with around 25,000 tonnes excavated and processed at Colchani annually.


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>9<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – A typical salt house


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>10<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Colorful market place


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>11<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – At the factory


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>12<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Mine owner busy with his work


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Playa Blanca salt hotel 
Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>14<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Posing after a good lunch


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At the Salt Flats and crazy photography


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>16<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Evolution of humans


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>17<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Carrying my travel companions


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>18<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Jurassic experience


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>19<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Wine break


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>20<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Lifting Rita



















Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>21<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – It can’t get any better – a roll on the bottle


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>22<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – A spoonful of lunch

Trichocereus cactus

For most Salar de Uyuni tours, the main destination is the spectacular Isla Incahuasi, otherwise known as Inkawasi, in the heart of the Salar 80km west of Colchani. This hilly outpost is covered in Trichocereus cactus and surrounded by a flat white sea of hexagonal salt tiles.


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Night view


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Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>25<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Chances of confusing the plains with sea

Day 2

 Chiguana desert- We visited Sol de Mañana

This desert is surrounded for many volcanoes…like dormant ones, extinct ones . We visited Sol de Mañana, meaning Morning Sun in Spanish, which is a geothermal field in south-western Bolivia. It stands at a height of 16,600ft. The short stay was punctuated for me when I started to bleed in the gums. The guide had to rush me down to lower altitude to stop the bleeding.


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Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>27<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Photo op


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>28<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – The geyser point


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>29<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Incredible sights of the Andes
Andean lagoons


Flamingos gather here by the hundreds to drink the mineral rich water


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>30<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – A lovely sight

Lunch at the Echo Hotel


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>31<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Very colorful to contrast the desert


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>32<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Beautiful Bolivian Lady


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>33<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Very basic and frugal lunch


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Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>35<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Captivating beauty


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>36<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Unforgettable sights


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>37<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – Sharing a quiet moment


Figure <!–[if supportFields]> SEQ Figure \* ARABIC <![endif]–>38<!–[if supportFields]><![endif]–> – A memorable trip. drive back

We visited lake Titicaca and Copacabana 08 to 10 May

We left Lima early in the morning and reached La Paz the capital of Bolivia around 10 AM. The city is located at a height of 13,000 ft and fortunately for us we had got acclimatized to high altitude for three days in Cusco. We had purposely planned to visit Lake Titicaca at the midpoint of our travel to give ourselves a bit of rest from travelling, sightseeing and the entire hectic schedule.
View from the room
We had booked the best possible hotel in town to relax, unwind and just chill.Our initial plan was to proceed from the airport to the bus stand and catch a tourist bus to the lake located in the town of Copacabana.  Lake Titicaca can be visited either from the Peruvian side or Bolivia. We choose the Bolivian side to enjoy the ride from La Paz to Copacabana. On our way to the bus stand Sushama came up with a brilliant idea ‘why not go by a taxi, its more comfortable ,no unloading and reloading the luggage, stop where we want for a break and photography and so on’. We spoke to the driver using sign language and Google translator and struck a deal for 130 USD one way. We soon realized that the local busses were actually small vans with hardly any room. The luxury bus ‘Bolivian Hop’ departs La Paz at 7 AM and 1 PM, which did not suit our requirements. 
The omnipresent Andes

Coffee break enroute

Ferry transfer midway

The lake follows you throughout the drive

One of the many islands in the lake

Terrain very similar to the drive from Jispa to Leh
The road and the lake run parallel for many miles offering the tourists an excellent view. After a very beautiful four hour drive along the lake side we reached the town of Copacabana on the shore of lake Titicaca. There is the belief that the name is derived from the local language ‘kahuana’, meaning “view of the lake.”The Brazilians borrowed the name for their famous beach in Rio. The town is located on the lake front at an altitude of 12400 ft.

The hotel ‘La Rosario Lago’ turned out to be a paradise of sorts with excellent ambiance and a lovely view of the lake. One can laze around in the bathtub whilst enjoying the beauty of the lake. The interiors of the hotel vividly reflects the art and decor of Bolivia. Hotel serves only breakfast and dinner. We went to the town for lunch on all days.

The interiors

Rest of La Rosario Lago Titicaca  from my balcony

Lake Titicaca at sunset
Lake Titicaca located at an altitude of 12600 ft is often claimed as the highest navigable lake in the world. The lake is the biggest in South America covering an area of 8300 Sq Kms. Lake Titicaca has a mind boggling maximum length of 190 Kms and a maximum width of 80 Kms. The average depth of the lake is 351 feet, although some parts of the lake are over 900 feet deep. More than 25 rivers empty into Titicaca, and the lake has 41 Islands, some of which are densely populated. The lake is pristine blue and provides a magical backdrop to the town. The lake reminded us of Pangong Tso in Leh, but very much larger. Just imagine an area of 8300 Sq Kms of Lake Titicaca compared with 604 Sq Kms of Pangong Tso.
We also visited a small island Isla del Sol situated close to Copacabana. A two hour boat ride in the beautiful lake takes you to the island and we spent better part of the morning taking in all the wonderful sights.The lake is home to a very large population of different types of birds. The visit to the island gave us an opportunity to feel the expanse of the lake.

On the island
Isla del Sol
At Isla del Sol
Navy captain on the way back

A cute little island enroute to Isla del Sol

Pristine blue all through
The place is pretty cold with night temperatures plummeting to near zero at night. Layers of warm clothing are a must when venturing out into the town. It is practically a one horse town with number of restaurants catering to the diverse needs of tourist who visit the lake. The food is excellent and very moderately priced. Vegetarian food is very popular amongst the tourist. Jai had a variety of food to choose from.Quinoa the super food of the urban rich including India is freely available in Peru and Bolivia. In addition Bolivians love eating rice and its a very popular item on the menu.

Lunch at a local restaurant

Rita waiting for her lunch

Jai very pleased

Extremely sweet person – our driver Mr Feliciano

Deserted street of Copacabana

Farewell lunch
All of us simply chilled the entire time appreciating the lake, enjoying good food and gave ourselves the much needed rest after hectic travelling for 15 days.
The same driver took us back to La Paz.

Glimpses of Cusco 05 to 08 May

Cusco located in the Urubamba valley of the Andes mountain range is a fascinating city that was the capital of the Inca Empire. Cusco is a Unesco World heritage Site and is one of Peru’s most visited cities as it is the largest and most comfortable city from which tourists can begin visits to Machu Picchu, the sacred valley of the Incas, and other Inca sites in the region. Cusco is a beautiful city with well preserved colonial architecture, evidence of a rich and complex history. The city itself represents the center of indigenous Quechua culture in the Andes, and by merely walking the streets one sees the layers of history. Spanish colonial buildings erected directly atop Inca walls line the square, while a bustling nightlife that tourists love to experience, flourishes in their midst. At 11,150 ft above sea level, altitude sickness can be a problem. Same as Leh. For most travellers, Cusco is the highest point on their trip or any trip for that matter and altitude sickness is a big problem for some tourists. A major earthquake on 21 May 1950 caused the destruction of more than one third of the city’s structures.
Panoramic view of Cusco from the hotel balcony

We flew into Cusco from Lima on the morning of 05 May. We had booked our accommodation in La Morada Suites through the internet. We had made the choice based on the inputs from the net. It promised a majestic view of the city from the balcony and an excellent ambiance.
As we approached the hotel the taxi driver informed us that the road leading to the hotel was very narrow and he would not be able to negotiate the car. He dropped us at the San Blas square leading to the hotel. To our horror we found that we had to walk up a considerable distance up a fairly steep and narrow street to reach the hotel. High altitude had already started to take effect and walking up a slope was a huge task. We finally reached the hotel after many stops, totally exhausted and short of breath. Even a 300 meter walk was too much to take. After checking in, we also realized that the rooms were duplex, the bedroom on the top floor and the bathroom and the toilet on the ground floor. We soon realized that getting down to the bathroom and struggling back to the bed at night was a herculean task. Some of us had to visit the toilet a number of times during the night. Carrying a camera and a small bag pack in high altitude can be an ordeal. The elderly should choose a hotel which is reachable by a taxi and with a lift facility.
As planned, we decided to stay put in the hotel and get acclimatized to the high altitude. To help matters, the hotel provides ‘Coca Tea’.  Coca tea, also called mate de coca, is an herbal tea made using the leaves of the coca plant, which is native to South America. It is made either by submerging the coca leaf or dipping a coca tea bag in hot water. The tea is most commonly consumed in the Andes mountain range, particularly Argentina, Bolivia, Columbia and Peru. It is greenish yellow in color and has a mild bitter flavor similar to green tea with a more organic sweetness. The leaves of the coca plant contain alkaloids which, when extracted chemically are the source for cocaine base. However, the amount of coca alkaloid in the raw leaves is small. Something that may surprise you is the open sale of coca leaves and coca tea in markets, cafes and even supermarkets. Where coca leaves really come in handy, however, is for the treatment of altitude sickness, something that many visitors to Cusco will experience. The benign properties of the plant are somewhat of a ‘miracle medicine’, and are highly effective at treating the symptoms of altitude sickness, or ‘soroche’. In addition to frequent helpings of coca tea we also took ‘Sorojchi Pills’ twice a day throughout our stay in Cusco and all of Bolivia.
Once we started feeling better we enjoyed Cusco, the hotel and all of its surroundings. We went out for a stroll in the evening and did some shopping. We had carried a few MTR Bangalore ready to eat food packets, which came in extremely handy in the high altitude. The next morning we went off to Machhu Picchu and spent the day after visiting the city and its outskirts. The city is extremely old but maintained very well. Medieval architecture can be seen everywhere.

The city is throbbing with tourists and there are a number of restaurants and pubs offering the best of cuisine and drinks. The city has a very vibrant night life and one can hear music till the wee hours. Cusco was home to an all time high of 4.57 million tourists in 2016.In spite of this staggering number, the city is extremely clean and the entire infrastructure is in good shape. This speaks volumes about the strength of their civic administration. There is a lot to learn from them.   

 

We went on a city tour on foot with a guide and later on in an open bus. We visited an Inca village and participated in a tribal ceremony heralding peace and happiness to all the tourists. The indigenous people, especially the women are colorfully dressed and most of them wear top hats or Monteras. We were told that these hats are very unique and represent different parts of Peru. They also wear Polleras which are very colorful. Most women wear many layers of Polleras. All of us bought sweaters, headgear and shawls made from the famous Alpaca wool.      
In spite of high altitude sickness and the intermittent rain, the visit to Cusco was worth it.   

View from the hotel

Cusco situated in a valley surrounded bu hills all around

The brown house tops merge excellently with the blue and grey sky


Clean streets of Cusco
All the city attractions are in walking distances

The city centre street



Houses with small balconies are all over

There are a number of healing centers attracting tourists for alternate therapies


Indigenous women
Women dressed in colorful traditional attire – Polleras

A Lamma always accompanies them

Top hats or Monteras

Spanish Architecture dating back to 1600

Cusco Cathedral, is the mother church of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Cusco built in 1654. The cathedral is located on the Plaza de Armas. The cathedral was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the City of Cuzco listing in 1983

From a distance

The Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus dates from the latter part of the 16th century, when it was built by the Jesuits, and stands alongside the cathedral, on the Plaza de Armas.

City view – The sky was overcast throughout the day

In Inca times, Qurikancha (Quechua for ‘Golden Courtyard’) was literally covered with gold.  It is said that the mummified bodies of several previous Inca kings were kept here, brought out into the sunlight each day and offered food and drink, which was then ritually burnt.

Photo op in the hotel lobby

Peruvian headgear keeps you very warm

The girls on a stroll
Rita all smiles after a very happy shopping experience

San Blas square leading to the hotel

Sushama modelling with her new Peruvian coat

Very local
The Southern Valley of Cusco is full of curious myths and great archaeological sites from the times of the Incas.

A view of the country side

Perched high above the colonial centre of Cusco, Cristo Blanco is a large statue of Jesus Christ that can be seen across the city. Towering some 8 meters (26 feet) high the white structure was a gift from Arabic Palestinians who sought refuge in Cusco after World War II. The statue depicts Christ extending his arms outwards, very similar to Rio´s Christ the Redeemer, but in miniature format

City centre and open architecture
Another example of street art

Old Inca sites in the Southern valley

Participating in Inca ceremony for health and happiness in a village on the outskirts of Cusco


The Inca priest


Sushama being blessed


Jai with priest


Sushama very happy after being blessed


Rita is all thrilled


Finally my turn to pose




We Visited Cusco and Machu Picchu – 05 to 08 May 2017

Having seen the archaeological ruins of Hampi and Angkor Wat, we were very keen to visit Machu Pichu. This was one of the main reasons why we decided to undertake the trip to Peru. There is something very intriguing when visiting these great civilizations. One begins to imagine how life must have been hundreds of years back. We stand in wonderment gazing at their ability to build great towns with impressive structures fulfilling the needs of their times. All these great civilizations survived for a long period of time and simply vanished at a certain point of time. Like sand castles on a beach being obliterated by a huge wave, these cities of yore also disappeared over time due to changes in weather pattern, rivers changing their course or drying up or people abandoning the site due to war, invasion or famine. Whatever may have been the reason; their departure appears to have been sudden and permanent. Overtime, the abundant power of nature took over these places and hid them under thick forest cover and foliage. These civilizations were reduced to ruins and remained hidden from the outside world for hundreds of years.

 

An amazing experience


The Inca Empire covering entire Peru and extending up to Ecuador and Columbia existed between 1438 and 1533. Machu Picchu is located North West of Cusco city which served as the capital of the Incas. Most archaeologists believe that Machu Picchu was built as an estate for the Inca emperor Pachacuti, situated on a mountain ridge 7,970 ft above sea level. Embedded between the Peruvian Andes and the Amazon Basin, it was home to 1200 Incas. It was built around 1450 but abandoned a century later at the time of the Spanish Conquest. Although its existence was known locally, it was not known to the Spanish during the colonial period and remained unknown to the outside world until American historian Hiram Bingham brought it to international attention in 1911. Machu Picchu was declared a Peruvian Historical Sanctuary in 1981 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. In 2007, Machu Picchu was voted one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in a worldwide internet poll. There are approximately 200 structures built for religious, ceremonial, astronomical and agricultural functions. The city is divided into a lower and upper part, separating the farming from residential areas.
The entire construction of Machu Picchu was undertaken without the use of wheels and implements made out of iron.
We took an early morning flight from Lima to Cusco. The city is located at a height a height of 11,200 ft. The whole day was spent relaxing and getting acclimatized to high altitude. Early next morning we took a train and bus to Machu Picchu. We utilized the services of a travel agency – Viator for the trip. The entire trip was very well organized. We were picked up very early in the morning from our hotel to be transported to Cusco Railway Station. 

At the Cusco Railway Station

We travelled on Peruvian Rail with a Vista dome all around view option. The trains are extremely comfortable and they provide breakfast while going and dinner on the return journey. The view along the ride is breathtaking as we traverse through the Amazonian rain forest and the Andes mountain range.

A picturesque drive 

After a four hour journey we reached Aguas Calientes, a small village located near Machu Picchu. We took a bus from the railway station to the base and thereafter climbed the steep slope to the top of Machu Picchu. The climb is even more tiring due to the high altitude. After a number of stops to catch our breaths we finally reached a high viewing spot on an adjacent hill top. A number of people go up the old Inca track to Machu Picchu rather than take the bus up from the station; the track is far tougher on account of the altitude.
 

As we climbed

Finally on top

Jai taking rest

Sushama all thrilled

Thank God the climb is over

Yet another view.The Sacred Plaza has been designated as the political center of the urban sector. It is surrounded, or better said, consisting of the main temple, the sacred Temple of the Three Windows and the Intihuatana (religious symbol represented by a carved Aerolite in solid rock), although also sits to the House of the priest and the sacred Temple of the Moon.

The living quarters.The complex structure of the Incan society defined several classes that even influenced the high aristocratic areas. That is why not all the members of the nobility possessed the same privileges, because these distinctions were awarded according to the lineage. The Royal Ayllus therefore representing the nobility of blood which would be thus constituted by the direct descendants of the King and that they were called Panacas.

Agricultural flats and storage area

Trek down

Further down

Religious and ceremony area.Located at the highest position of the city, to the north from the set of buildings forming around a House designated as yard called “Sacred Plaza”, the main temple or temple Mayor of Machu Picchu stands at this location as one of the two buildings with greater spiritual meaning to the Citadel. This square picks up the two most important temples of this city: the Temple of the three Windows and the main Temple of Machu Picchu.

The Temple of the Three Windows is one of the foundations with the longest history in the sacred lost city of Machu Picchu. According to the native indigenous folklore, the city was build up with the purpose to hide the Inca civilization from the Spanish conquerors, and this location was without a doubt more than ideal for such shelter. This Temple held a great spiritual value for the civilization but also has a very important historical meaning.
All of a sudden the entire city of Machu Picchu became visible and we stood motionless staring at the magical view. It takes some time to visualize the whole of Machu Picchu. It is a stunning sight to see the ancient ruins up close. We made our way through the ruins as the clouds played hide and seek with the mountains. We were lucky to have an English speaking guide who took us through the entire journey telling us about Inca history, culture and traditions. He made the trip very interesting.


The trek down is easy and comfortable. The guide took us through the long route and made us see all the structures of Machu Picchu. Its baths and temples, houses and sanctuaries echo the well laid out streets and buildings of the Indus valley civilization. The walls, terraces and ramps blend seamlessly with the natural surroundings of this famous ‘lost city of the Incas’. Machu Picchu’s most distinct and famous structures include the Temple of the Sun and the Intihuatana stone, a sculpted granite rock that is believed to have functioned as a solar clock or calendar. The day trip to Machu Picchu will remain etched in our memory for a very long time. The visual experience of seeing the ancient ruins is simply magical.
 

Immersed in clouds

Clouds playing hide and seek

A panoramic view

Rita all smiles after seeing Machu Picchu

Happiness personified


An achievement of sorts
The journey back on the train was even more interesting with a fashion show and sale of dresses. A little short of Cuzco, our train had a minor accident. We were held up for over two hours. The train staff was catering to every need during the delay and was extremely helpful, keeping us informed of the latest information about the delay. When the train started again, a recorded announcement came on saying, ‘Remember, Peru Rail strives to make your journeys unforgettable!’ The entire compartment burst out laughing at this.
Vista dome compartment

Posing with the wild life dancer

We Visited Iquitos and the Amazon Rain Forest from 30 Apr to 04 May


After a hectic visit to Iguassu waterfalls we bid goodbye to Brazil and flew further West to Peru – Lima. We landed late in the night and stayed put in Hotel Palmetto San Miguel which is a 15-minute drive from Jorge Chavez Airport. The hotel is basic and clean with a very good restaurant. After a very early breakfast we went back to the airport to catch a flight to Iquitos.

Four for the forest
Iquitos has the unique distinction of being the only large city in the world which can be reached only by air and river. No roads are there to reach the city. The area rapidly developed into a big town during the great Amazon Rubber boom during the early 1900s. In later years it attracted hordes of tourists wanting to visit the Amazon. Iquitos is now the staging post for the Peruvian part of the Amazon rain forests with its related activities. It is located in the Amazon basin at the confluence of the Nanay and Itaya rivers, about 3,700 km upstream from the Atlantic Ocean and 1,030 km north-Northeast of Lima
Motocarro experience
The most common way to move around town is by motocarro, a motorcycle with a small, rickshaw-like passenger cabin in the back. The last night in Iquitos the driver of motocarro managed to take all four of us back to the hotel. There are a lot of signature ‘must do’ items in Iquitos. We took a ride around the city in the motocarro, stayed in the Amazon rain forest, caught and ate Piranhas and relished the Peruvian National drink ‘Pisco Sour’. The last one is so addictive; it is being savored even now, back home in Bengaluru. 
We checked into a boutique hotel ‘Casa Morey’. Our stay in this hotel turned out to be yet another highlight of our SA trip. The hotel is located in front of the Itaya River. The Casa Morey is a historic building and is a national monument that dates back to 1913. The house was built by a wealthy rubber baron, Luis Morey, in 1913.This attractive building was restored as the Casa Morey Hotel to conserve the charm and splendor of past eras reminding us of the elegance of the historic buildings of the rubber boom era in the Peruvian Amazon. 
In front of the hotel – Itaya river basin
Photo op for Sushama in the reception area

The corridor in front of our room

Rita texting in the reception area

Unbelievably beautiful swimming pool

Another view. Spiral staircase leading to our rooms

Reception area

The dining area

City Centre
Casa Morey is an experience to be cherished. The rooms are huge by today’s standards with high ceilings and exquisite interiors which reflect the grandeur of a bygone era of opulence and leisure.  The swimming pool comes alive in the evening with attractive lights. A swim is a must to overcome the humid atmosphere. The hotel overlooks the river Itaya. The staff is very helpful, especially the cook who went out of her way to prepare dishes which suited the Indian palate. We enjoyed our stay in Casa Morey to the fullest.
Enjoying the delectable ‘Pisco Sour’
Iquitos has a number of riverside restaurants catering to the tourist. In one such place, we were initiated into drinking Pisco Sour.
The very word ‘Amazon’ conjures up a deep sense of excitement. I have been hearing this word since my school days.  Just the mention of the word Amazon is sufficient to imagine very tall trees jutting into the sky blocking all sunlight, thick undergrowth, incessant rains and the muddy, often soggy ground filled with creepy crawlies. While planning our trip, the choice was between Iquitos/Amazon and Puno/Ariquipa. Sushama is an extreme wild life buff and wasted no time in deciding to visit the rain forest. The excitement starts to build up even before landing in Iquitos. The aircraft when descending flies over a vast stretch of the Amazon River. From the air, one can clearly see its vastness, its meandering and its sheer length and width.
From the aircraft prior to landing in Iquitos. What a vies
The river flows through Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia and Venezuela. However, the major portion of the river runs through Brazil and Peru. Peru’s rainy season runs from December through May. Our visit to the rain forest was during the high water months of Apr/May. The entire forest is inundated with water reaching up to 7 meters at some places. In a typical year, the Amazon River rainforest experiences 200 rainy days, which means that there will be days of rain even in the low water season. During this period all travel to and within the forest is by motor boat and canoe. The weather is muggy but tolerable. The fascinating aspect of the weather is its unpredictability. One moment it is dull and cloudy, and then it suddenly changes to bright sunshine and scorching heat. As one starts to appreciate the clear sky, clouds gather once again and the famed torrential rain engulfs the entire area for hours on end. The Amazon Jungle is as big as the  
Australian Continent. It has almost one-quarter of all the Earth’s species of plants. There are more than 60,000 different species of tropical plants here, and around 4,000 species of trees.  As you navigate the rain forest it is very common to see a very large variety of plants growing next to each other with no two trees or plants alike.
The thick undergrowth

A solitary crane amongst many other birds we sighted

A random orchid

The extent of inundation
The four of us and two girls from Canada embarked a motor boat at the jetty to be transported to Sinchicuy Forest Lodge for our three day ‘Amazon Rain Forest’ experience. Our English speaking guide Oscar was with us all through our stay and accompanied us on our conducted tours, telling us stories and facts about this great river with utmost passion and diligence. After an hour’s boat ride we arrived at the lodge. The lodge is built on an elevated area mostly out of seasoned wood. The lodge consists of a huge main hall which serves as the sitting and dining area for the tourist. The entire tall structure is covered by nets to keep the mosquitoes and other creatures at bay. The living accommodation is on stilts and the rooms come with a sit out and independent bathroom. Here again the entire area is covered by a net. The lodge sits amidst a thick forest growth with small rivulets flowing underneath. Mosquito repellent has to be applied on all the exposed parts of the body at least 3 to 4 times a day. It is advisable to carry a spray with you on all your outdoor visits. Mr. Franco is the manager of the lodge, a very approachable and helpful gentleman. The food is frugal but sufficient. It is helpful to carry some eats from Iquitos to supplement the lodge diet. One can hear the constant chirping of the insects, strange bird calls and all the other forest noises throughout the day and night. Added to this was the local colour and sounds of the lodge pets- Amazonia the cat, Paco the Parrot and Marco the monkey. They roam around the forest and return to the lodge for their meals.
Making our way through the Amazon

Worms on sale

Approach to the boat through their fishing market

The Sinchicuy Lodge

A private sit out

Sushama all engrossed . Notice the net covering the entire area

The Amazon is a beautiful combination of visual and physical experiences. It is very difficult to express this unique communion with nature.  
During our stay in the lodge we ventured deep into the rain forest three times a day. We took a tranquil canoe ride to Nueno Pero to encounter the indigenous locals of the riverside village. Peruvians love rice and it is on their table for all three meals. On our return we were served hot rice and a curry made out of jungle beans. Imagine having rice and rajma dal for lunch. It was heavenly. On both the nights we were taken into the forest in a canoe to get a feel of the forest in the dark. Somehow, we felt no fear as we canoed our way in the pitch darkness of the forest accompanied by sounds and shadows and a few twinkling stars seen peeping through the thick foliage. It is very easy though, to lose one’s way going up and down those canals leading off the river. Our guide, who was in a mischievous mood, asked us to guide the boatman home; we thought we were doing great till he finally backtracked and took the right canal home. During our boat rides we were able to spot monkeys, pink dolphins and the elusive sloths resting high on the tree branches. The forest is home to a very large variety of birds. We went on a Piranha fishing trip and came face to face with the deadly fish. We caught many piranhas and cooked them for lunch.
 

My firist fishing experience

A very risky item for lunch

We did a short trek to interact with the Yagua tribe. We danced with them and took a pot shot with ‘Punaca’ a native blow gun. We visited a local ‘Shaman’ to see local medicinal preparations. There was a very interesting visit to Fundo Neiser Custody Centre, an animal rescue centre, which gave us an opportunity to be up close to an anaconda. We had an extremely hilarious encounter with a local parrot. There was an impromptu singing session with Oscar on the guitar and a local boy on the drums with Jai and Rita singing ‘Lipstick on your Collar’. Within minutes the parrot repeated the song and continued with it till we left. It was really amazing. We crossed Yanayacu River from end to end and visited the Tambo Yanayacu Lodge located in the “Kingdom of the Giant Trees”. We saw a “lupuna” or ceiba tree species over 150-feet high.

We returned to Iquitos with ever lasting memories of the Amazon.
Impossible to penetrate this diverse variety of plants

Dancing with the Yagua Tribe

A Yagua child

For our album

A typical non tribal village

Rita striking the tribal drum to announce lunch. All announcements are made by beating the drum. Tourist take turns to strike.

Elusive Sloth

Another sighting

Ultimate experience. Baby anaconda at the rescue centre

My chance

Why should i be left out

Impromptu singing . Thereafter the parrot started lipstick on your Collar’

Jai taking a pot shot with the Punaca

Just before sun set

Passionate wildlife enthusiast has decided to come back to the Amazon for the second time.

Finally mustering courage

Having a field day with the macau

Oscar with a very odd looking Turtle

We Visited Foz do Iguacu and Iguassu Waterfalls from 27 to 29 April 2017

Panaromic view of Iguassu waterfall at Devils Troat
After a two hour flight from Rio we landed in Foz do Iguacu a small touristy town mainly catering to tourists visiting the famous Iguassu Falls. The city is a melting pot of many nationalities that come to visit the waterfalls. Foz is a fairly laid back city with a large number of restaurants catering to the diverse gourmet requirements of the tourists. Chinese, Italian, Spanish, Pizza, Tapas compete with the local delicacies. The city is very well spread out with broad roads, elegant footpaths and avenues. The weather is very moderate and comfortable. Shorts and a light cotton shirt fit the bill. Street cafes are a very popular form of dining. They provide every variety of food, beer and free wifi. We thoroughly enjoyed sitting in the open and enjoying the atmosphere. Unless you decide to visit a pub or disco restaurant, the town shuts down fairly early. Our hotel ‘Aguas do Iguacu Hotel Centro’ was located right in the middle of the action area. The hotel travel desk staff goes out their way to help with all tours and visits. Planning your activity, hiring taxis, buying entrance tickets are all done from the hotel. Various aspects of the visits are well coordinated and meshed together in a seamless fashion.

Foz do Iguacu has the distinction of bordering Argentina to the South and Paraguay to the West. With such a broad mixture of various cultures, it’s not hard to find a variety of artifacts being sold in the roadside kiosks. Earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other forms of junk jewelry are aplenty. We relished the sweet thick purple juice made from the Açaí berry, an energy drink. The Açaí Juice is a very popular drink of Brazil. 

In the afternoon we visited Bosque Guarani Zoo which is a refuge and sanctuary for many bird species, including macaws, golden parakeets, harpy eagles and toucans. Displays also include other animal life such as reptiles, snakes and tarantulas. It also carries out valuable research into the Iguazú forest environment and has a breeding program for endangered species.The idea is to rescue, recover and reintroduce specimens that get to this place because they were victims of an accident, confiscated or delivered by regretful owners. An afternoon well spent.
Place for the monkeys to play


Harpy Eagle


Elusive Black Panther


Capybera freely roam about outside the park – the largest rodent in the world 

Next morning we visited the largest bird park Parque das Aves in all of Latin America spread over 40 acres of sub-tropical rain forest. This park provides shelter for around a thousand birds (150 species) as well as butterflies and reptiles from both all South America and other exotic places. What is different about this park when compared to other zoos or similar parks is that the most of the cages are huge and the birds and animals can roam and fly free. Also, it’s possible to enter those enclosures and admire all the beauty of the exotic colorful birds: a wide variety of parrots, toucans, eagles, owls and others. It’s a perfect place for photography as there’s no fence between the camera and the object so the photos look as if they were taken in their natural environment. The toucans even seem to pose for photographs.

Cariama Cristata


Wild Fowl


Red crane perched on a tree


Budgies – Yellow Parrot


Blue and Yellow Macaw


Blue and Yellow Macaw with Eclectus


Cariama Cristata appreciating herself in the mirror


Budgies – Yellow Parrot


Great Egrets and Cranes
As recommended by our hotel travel guide we took a bus across to the water falls around noon time. As we alighted from the bus the wonder of the world ’Iguassu waterfalls’ was there right in front of us. The initial reaction was one of disappointment and a slight feeling of being let down when we saw one waterfall in the distance. The sadness was evident on all our faces. Soon we realized that it was just the beginning of 275 different falls which extend to 2.7 Km in length, ending up at the famous and spectacular ‘Devils Throat’. Their height varies between 200 feet and 269 feet. A large proportion of the water is thrust down Devil’s Throat, a long chasm that is 82 metres high, 150 metres wide and 700 metres long. We had seen the Niagara and Victoria Falls earlier and had been overawed by them. It was now our turn to enjoy Iguassu. As one treks along the 2.7 Km narrow pathway which runs parallel to the deep gorge, the beauty and the enormity of the waterfalls begin to unfold. This phenomenal spectacle seems never-ending as rivers Iguassu and Parana continuously empty themselves into the gorge. The visual treat is enhanced by the roar of the waterfalls and the cooling water spray. The trek is never ending and one needs to stop for a coffee break or a photo shoot to recoup.

The entrance to the National Park

At the entrance


The maiden view


As you progress down the track


Still Further


A Photo Op


Sushama engrossed


Yet another view


Prior to Devils throat
Each part of the waterfalls is different, giving an impression that we are watching a different waterfall each time. The intensity and the dynamics of each waterfall is distinctive making Iguassu very unique and unforgettable. At ’Devils Throat’ you stand face to face with the most powerful manifestation of nature. Experiencing the power of water at such close quarters will remain with us for a very long time. The ringside view is breathtaking. The Devil’s Throat is also the border between Argentina and Brazil, splitting the falls between the two countries.

The trek gradually takes you to the bottom of the gorge where they have built a viewing platform in the middle of Devil’s Throat. The best part is the lift which takes the tourists back to the top.

Totally drenched


Devils Throat


As it flows
Thereafter we took a 6 Km speed boat ride in the river. The last part of the boat ride takes you directly into the ‘Three Musketeers’ water fall. As the boat enters the waterfall, an enormous amount of water from a height falls on the boat completely drenching one and all. This experience was something new and totally exhilarating. The water fall is so thick and intense it becomes difficult to breathe through the nose. Screams and shrieking from the boat is deafening and addictive. As one recovers from the episode the boat re-enters the fall for the second and third time. The boat ride was an amazing unforgettable experience.

The entire Iguassu forest area is well maintained by the authorities. The drive to the waterfall, the facilities, restaurants, toilets, roads are in excellent condition. On the whole the visit was exhilarating and great value for money.



After the ride


All wet and thrilled


Very well crafted artifacts at the shop on top




We Visited Rio de Janeiro 25 to 28 Apr and 15 to 17 May

View of Rio from Sugar Loaf Mountain
After a very long and exhausting journey of 26 hours we landed in the magical city of Rio at 1430 in the afternoon of 25 Apr. We were extremely lucky to have visited Brazil in the months of April and May, the weather was perfect for sightseeing, lazing around on the beach and enjoying the open street cafes sipping chilled beer. The temperature varied from a high of 26 to a comfortable 16 deg C at night. There were a few light showers in the evenings to cool the city down. We checked in to IBIS Hotel in Nova America, an up market and modern locality.

Nova America
At the banana bar Nova America

From the hotel
Rio is a very old city developed around the Guanabara Bay. The Portuguese first encountered Guanabara Bay on 1 January 1502, hence “Rio de Janeiro” or “January River” (it does not exist). From 1565 to 1889 it remained under the rule of Portugal. In 1808, when the Portuguese Royal court transferred itself from Portugal to Brazil, Rio de Janeiro became the chosen seat of the court of Queen Maria I. Rio has the distinction of being the only European capital outside of Europe. During the Napoleonic period a large number of Portuguese, especially the noble men relocated to Rio. During the same period, a very large number of slaves were brought in from Africa to work in the sugar plantations and gold mines. Rio de Janeiro is home to the largest Portuguese population outside of Lisbon in Portugal. The Black community was formed by residents whose ancestors had been brought as slaves, mostly from Angola or Mozambique.

Today Rio is a mixture of White –  52 %, Pardo 37 % (tri-racial) and Black 12 %.At the time of European contact, some of the indigenous people were traditionally mostly semi- nomadic tribes who subsisted on hunting, fishing and migrantagriculture. There are about 240 indigenous tribes living in Brazil today, totaling around 900,000 people, or 0.4% of Brazil’s population. The indigenous population rapidly declined during the Portuguese rule.

Guanabara Bay, from Sugar loaf Mountain. One has to take a cable car ride to reach the top

Another View

The city
When you sit in open cafes or travel on their metro you can see multi hued people, Rio truly represents a rainbow of different colours, races and culture. Unlike some countries it is very difficult to pin point a person and say he has Brazilian features. Rio is a mixed bagof different cultures, which in turn makes it vibrant and interesting.

At Lapa Botica da Garrafa bar

The city itself is very huge, extremely well laid out, clean and the roads are excellent. The people go about their business in a leisurely fashion, dressed in anything from shorts to formal wear. There is Latino music everywhere to be heard. Football fields are plenty and one can see children enjoying a game late into the night. Food is plentiful and very reasonable. Helpings are really huge. A litre of petrol cost 68 Rs and the radio taxis are very reasonable and safe. We used taxis very extensively as it worked out well for the four of us. Language is a big problem. Not everyone knows English and as a result we had to use Google translator (which worked out well for us)constantly to seek directions, order food etc.

With the  school girl who helped us navigate the metro
The people are very helpful and go out of their way to assist. Rio has a very efficient and well planned metro interconnecting various parts of the city. We used it a number of times. The police and the security staff are very smart, well dressed and make their presence felt. For the coffee fans, there is a variety of coffee to choose from, for their daily fix. There are a number of Cambios for exchange of currency. Carry USD and convert them to Real – R$ as and when required. 1 R$ = 20INR approximate.
We enjoyed visiting Lapa on the very first night. Instead of resting in the hotel we decided to hit the most happening place in Rio for night life – Lapa. It is known for its lively social scene and cultural events. The neighborhood comes alive in the evening with many road side cafes serving beer and local cuisine. The mood is eclectic and care free; no one to ask you how you’re dressed, what you are eating and so on.

The second day we headed out to the famous Copacabana beach and spent the whole day enjoying its beauty. The 5 km of white sandy beach is complimented by the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean. In the backdrop are the thickly wooded mountains providing an intoxicating aura of romance and endless possibilities on the beach. People with a flair for mathematics will find enough shapes and sizes to whet their scientific minds. In the evening, various bands come alive on the beach with light displays. The entire beach is cleaned at 6PM from end to end. Running, beach volley ball and football are very popular. Incidentally we had lovely SKOL beer. They provide beer in a plastic outer container to keep it chilled for a longer period.

Pristine white sand

Immaculate and clean Promenade

Sand sea and the mountains

Sugar Loaf from the sea

The ladies in blue and white complementing the beauty of Atlantic

Amazing shades of blue

Samba music in the cafe

Photo op for Sushama
Beer in a container

With our English travel friends

As the sun set
Thereafter we went across to Rio Scenarium, which is not only popular in Lapa but also in Rio. It is so popular that one needs to book a table in advance. Listed by The Guardian, as among the 10 best nightclubs in the world, Rio Scenarium is the temple of samba music. The place also showcases old artifacts on its high walls. No wonder the girls went on the floor and joined others in gay abandon, dancing and frolicking. They had to be literally pulled out of the restaurant. Late into the night, we returned to the hotel happy and all giddy headed.

Antique clocks adorning the wall

With mannequins

She sang non stop for an hour

It cannot get any better

All are floored

No end to their dancing
The whole of the next day was spent visiting the famous tourist attractions of Rio and driving around the city. The statue of ‘Christ the Redeemer’ is breathtaking and so is Sugar Loaf Mountain. The view of Rio from these places is something to be cherished forever. We saw a notorious ‘Favela” from a distance. It means ‘slum’ in Portuguese. It is a low-income informal urban area in Brazil.
I have placed an unusually large number of photographs of Rio in this blog, as they convey the essence of this charming city.  

At Sugar Loaf Mountain

At Sugar loaf Mountain. This cable car was specially made for Bond Film “Moonraker” to depict a fight in the car with Jaws the metal eater.

A view from the mountain
With the other Viator travelers

An amazing opportunity

Christ the Redeemer in Rio, created by French sculptor Paul Landowski and built by the Brazilian engineer Heitor da Silva Costa,The statue is 30 metres (98 ft) tall, not including its 8-meter (26 ft) pedestal, and its arms stretch 28 metres (92 ft) wide.
rather than depict Christ with a cross, Da Silva Costa designed to resemble  a cross with his outstretched arms.

This crazy and colorful tiled stairway is the work of Chilean artist Jorge Seleron. In 1990, Selarón began renovating dilapidated steps that ran along the front of his house.There are 215 steps measuring 125 metres long which are covered in over 2000 tiles collected from over 60 countries around the world. Selarón was found dead January 10, 2013, on the famous Lapa steps. 

Mera Bharat Mahan

Brazilian street art,spread all over the city depicting all aspects of nature and life.In March 2009, the Brazilian government passed law 706/07 which decriminalizes street art. In Rio de Janeiro, the street art is ubiquitous. It exists in all corners of the city from the favela to upper class neighborhoods, from residential to institutional. It is bold in scale and aesthetics, and is anything but graffiti. 

Getting ready for Rio Carnival

On our way back in May we spent a fair amount of time in Nova America, just lazing around and watching people go by. Our best leisure activity was to sit in well appointed open air cafes sipping beer and munching  Brazilian delicacies. Try Bohemian or Brahma beer. The house draft beer is good too. There are a number of good wines for those who prefer it.

We Visited South America. 23 Apr to 18 May.

In the month of January I started planning our annual pilgrimage. A selection of places to visit is fairly complicated. There is always an urge to go on the beaten track, have a safe holiday and come back. South America was always on my bucket list, but the thought of travelling long distances, time and money had kept me away from this option. I watch National Geographic quite a bit and their programmes invariably took me to SA. The more I watched, the more I got hooked on to this part of the world. By February I had homed in on Brazil, Peru, Bolivia and Argentina. Age and associated health issues are factors which need to be considered while planning trips which are physically demanding and of long duration.  For me, it was now or never.


A lot of friends and acquaintances thought this trip was an over reach from all angles – duration, expenses and the physical challenge. For one reason or the other, none came forward to participate in this odyssey. Some attributed their reluctance to undertake this trip citing security issues, they said’ all the countries you have chosen are unsafe, how can we travel in Bolivia, we will get mugged in Rio’ and so on. At one time it was just Jai and me.

When Jayanti’s colleague, Sushama heard of this audacious but adventurous plan, she very willingly jumped on the band wagon. I had been promising to take Rita, our ‘Sambhandi,’ on a trip and she readily agreed to join the gang. That made four of us.

Planning started in right earnest in end January. Be it South Africa or New Zealand or Cambodia and Vietnam, I always consult our globetrotting friend Kshama for advice. My first question to her as always was ‘will we able to do it?’. After she assured me that it was very doable, I started working out the details. To boost your confidence it is always good to ask someone who has done the trip. I also consulted a naval colleague, Commander CJ Singh, who had undertaken a similar trip a month earlier. Thanks Kshama and CJ for your inputs J
Planning this trip while sitting in Bengaluru was not at all easy. We were going to a different continent, visiting three countries, four different time zones and numerous hotels, attractions and flight bookings. The selection of places to visit in itself is a very big task.


Detailed research and meticulous planning paid immense dividends. In all we travelled 47,000 Kms, visited Rio, Foz do Iguacu, Iguassu waterfalls, Lima, Iquitos, the Amazon rain forest, Cusco, Machu Pichhu, Lake Titicaca, Copacabana, La Paz, Uyuni, the Bolivian salt flats , forayed into the Atacama desert and covered much more in 26 days. We undertook 18 flights during this period and stayed in13 hotels and thoroughly enjoyed the adventure. We crossed 4 time zones, made ourselves understood in Portuguese and Spanish with the help of Google translator, tasted different cuisines, travelled in high altitude areas with howling winds and sub zero temperatures.

Each day was different and each offered a totally singular experience. Blazing sun to snowy mountains to waterfalls to exotic cities, arid desert, it was one big jamboree all the way.


Contrary to popular belief, travelling in these places was very safe and we had absolutely no untoward incident during our entire stay. The girls felt safer, than in Namma Bengaluru. The people were extremely helpful, friendly and polite and extended a warm welcome to us at every turn.

Travelling with Jai, Rita and Sushama was wonderful; they make excellent travel companions – cheerful, accommodating and above all blessed with a spirit of adventure.

We returned with loads of unforgettable experiences of places, people and events. Every aspect of the trip unfolded without a single glitch.
I plan to cover all our visits, separately and in detail, in the days to come.

Until then, Cheers.

Goodbye 2016. Wishing all the readers of my blog a happy 2017. Trip to Matheran, Jayanti’s 60th Birthday, Karin’s Wedding, Nagarhole, Barbeque, Hair Styling and other stories.

2016 was a very eventful year. Once again I wish to thank all the readers for continuing to visit my blog and encouraging me to write. It is with utmost pride I wish to inform all of you that my blog has crossed “1, 00, 000 page views”.

2016 Family Get Together

Travelling abroad and within India has become a standard feature in our lives. I have always maintained that traveling is extremely therapeutic and rejuvenating. There is nothing like a jaunt with family and friends to balance one’s life, especially today.


In the months of April and May we visited New Zealand for three weeks. We drove all over NZ from North to South. The country is blessed with exceptional natural assets – lakes, forests, mountains, rivers, beaches, volcanoes, coves, geysers and much more. We were spellbound coming face to face with ‘Maori Culture’. We were most impressed with the way the environment is respected and protected.

We travelled extensively within India. We went to Mumbai and visited Matheran. We also visited Jaipur and took a trip to Shillong, Kaziranga, Kolkata and the Sundarbans. A short stay in Coonoor and Nagarhole ended our travel for 2016.     

Visit to Truefitt and Hill. My nephew’s wife Shree, who manages a very successful PR firm in Bangalore, came home to be part of my birthday celebrations. During the course of the evening she presented me a gift voucher to visit the newly inaugurated barber shop ‘Truefitt and Hill’ in Indiranagar– the oldest barbershop in the world, as certified by the Guinness Book of World Records in April 2000. Truefitt was established in 1805 by William Francis Truefitt. He styled himself as hairdresser to the British Royal Court and the firm received their first Royal Warrant from King George III. Their advertisement proudly proclaims that Sir Winston Churchill, Charles Dickens, Oscar Wilde, Alfred Hitchcock and Frank Sinatra were groomed by T and H hopefully they will add Capt Pubs.  
I was truly delighted that I would be groomed in such a famous barber shop. Some of the guests were upset with Shree for giving me a gift which had no use. They all screamed at her, “Have you seen his head? One cannot get any balder than this”. Ignoring all jibes and innuendos, I went ahead and took an appointment at the hair dressers.

After a short walk around and explanation of the facilities by the manager, I was handed over to the head barber who proceeded with the grooming in the ‘Dukes Room’.

Dukes Room – Royalty

Starting with a ‘Royal Shave’ the barber took me through the most delightful grooming experience of my life. The courtesy and skill exhibited by the London trained barber was simply outstanding. This was followed by a ‘Royal Haircut’, ‘Royal Manicure’ and ‘Royal Pedicure’. The package also included a ‘Head Massage’ and ‘Face Massage’. This 150 minute blissful experience is punctuated with many cups of herbal tea, cookies and pastries. All this comes at a cost. If I were to visit the outfit again, on my own, the same set of services would cost me around Rs10, 000. It was a once in a life time experience.

We visited Matheran. Our early October visit to our daughter’s place in Mumbai coincided with Rita’s birthday. We went along with the Blahs to Matheran for a short trip. Matheran town by itself was a huge disappointment, once again reflecting the utter chaos in the local tourist industry. Bad parking arrangements, disorderly rickshaw pullers and horse attendants, nonexistent roads, dirt and filth all along the approach to the cottages portrays a very sad picture of the hill station. The entire population of Matheran is dependent on the tourist for their livelihood. The government seems to be blissfully inactive and their involvement appears to be totally lacking. 

The only saving grace was our hotel a Neemrana property– ‘Verandah in the Forest’. The Verandah in the Forest is one of the most unique heritage hotels in Matheran. This resort in Matheran was the second house to be built on the isolated Western Ghats by Captain Barr in the 19th century. This impressive building has been converted into a resort whilst maintaining all the essentials of this old time Indo British architecture. A huge verandah with endless period furniture welcomes you and gives the visitor a ‘non hotel – hotel’ ambiance as claimed by the owners. The rooms are huge and cozy, the service is excellent and the food is delectable. The overall setting reminded me of a very well run plantation club. 

The Verandah
Huge – really big
View from the verandah
A posh drawing room
Cozy couple
Birthday girl enjoying dinner with son in law
The drawing, dining room and the library takes you back to a different era – sitting in dinners, opulent china and silver ware, candelabras, coffee in the library, afternoon tea and so on. ‘Verandah in the Forest’ is truly a remarkable getaway from the fast paced city life.

Dinner for the royalty

Jayanti’s 60th Birthday. My dearest wife reached the 60 landmark on 17 Oct 2016. The whole family was excited and made detailed plans to celebrate. Bali and Sri Lanka were ruled out due to paucity of time and finally we chose ‘Jaipur’ the pink city to bring in her birthday. Vivek, Shubhra and Samara joined us at the airport for an early morning flight. We checked into ‘The Marriot, Jaipur’, to be joined by Akhila, Anirban, Ayaan, Agastya and Aarin.


The three day celebration started with a delicious lunch at ‘Spice Court’. Marwari Mutton Tikka, Kheema Batti and Lal Mass stole the show. Going to a restaurant with Anirban and Vivek is a complex exercise involving assessment of various places, consultation with other foodies, research on the net etc. Without exception we end up eating gourmet food and other exotica in the best places in town.

At Spice Court restaurant


All in Jai’s honour

In the evening we visited ‘Rambhag Palace’Jaipur. Even a short stay in the hotel is sufficient to absorb the magnificence of this 181 year old structure. The palace comes alive at night with colorful and elegant lighting and melodious live music in the background. The overall ambiance is one of luxury and unadulterated opulence with a touch of royalty. The hotel staff prepared a lovely birthday cake for Jai.

Simply captivating
A photo op
Cake cutting in advance. Twins had retired
The grand kids and I spent a lot of time in the pool and indulged in a Jacuzzi and sauna.  Marriot looks after the tourist very well, the food is good and the staff is polite and helpful. The next morning we visited the famous ‘Lassiwala’of Jaipur to quench our thirst. Thereafter we went on a drive around the city before returning to the hotel for a quiet lunch and some badly needed rest.
The evening was filled with fun and frolic.

Joy ride in Jaipur
At Lassiwala
 We visited ‘Choki Dhani’ which offers Rajasthani heritage, music, dance and traditional food under one umbrella. Everybody had something to do in the village -camel rides, arrow shooting, head massage, tribal dance and many other such activities kept all of us busy throughout the evening. The package deal includes a typical Rajasthani meal in an ethnic setting.  
  

Totally absorbed except one – Aggy


A lovely performance

Very pleased with each other

Waiting for the Rajastani meal
We reached the hotel just after the stroke of twelve. We brought in the birthday by popping a bottle of champagne, hugs from children and grand children and many good wishes to Jai.

Masti masters



Very apt


It was a wonderful holiday with our children, their spouses and all the grand children. Like Jai said” This was the best holiday I’ve had in a long time”. 

Jaipur after many years wears a very clean and tidy face. It was a pleasure to drive around in the city. 

A lovely evening with daughter dear. Narain Nivas Palace Hotel Jaipur

While on the subject of Jai’s 60th birthday, the school decided to celebrate her birthday on our return. I was also invited to the function. Both of us were in for a pleasant surprise. The school had organized a full-fledged ’Shashtipoorthi’ ceremony.  The term Shasti in numerology denotes sixty (60). In an individual’s life, the completion of sixty years is referred to as Shastipoorthi. It is regarded as a renewal of marital vows and marks the transition from the material to the spiritual world. The event is marked by the celebration of second round of marriage rituals.

Are you serious

Very serious after the second wedding

All the witnesses


Freedom International School celebrated their Annual Sports Day on 15 Dec 2016 with the theme ‘A Tribute to the Armed Forces’. They invited Air Vice Marshal Sandeep Singh, Commandant of Aircraft and Systems Testing Establishment (ASTE)as the chief guest. A few of us veterans also attended the sports day. All the events were conducted with military precision and well received by the parents and spectators. There was even a Military Tattoo and a marching cadence presented by the four Houses at school. A replica of the Sukhoi aircraft, INS Vikramaditya and Kargil sand models created by the school staff and the students made for a great photo op after the function.

Sushama and Jai giving final touches to ‘Kargil’ sand model

Wedding in the Hills.  Our niece Karin married Gabriel in Coonoor on the 21 Dec 2016. It was yet another destination wedding. All the close relatives of the bride and the bridegroom were there along with friends of the bride’s parents. The bride’s friends joined the merriment in large numbers and so did the local guests. The three day celebrations included the welcome dinner at Wellington Lake, the Mehendi ceremony at Dunmore House, the reception at the Wellington Gymkhana Club, and finally the wedding at the Taj Gateway Hotel. All the events were organized in different venues which made it extremely interesting.

Karin and Gabriel all smiles

Very proud parents

A photo of for brother and sisters
The wedding was extremely well organized. The planning and the execution of the wedding were excellent. Girija and Shankar had planned all the events with great care and attention to detail. Old friends, good weather and the lovely ambiance of Coonoor made a positive impact on the wedding.
Karin and Gabriel looked radiant in their wedding attire, full of smiles and warmth.


We wish them both a very long and happy married life.

Jai and I along with our children and four grandchildren stayed in a cottage ‘Shunyata’ located eight kilometers from Coonoor. The cottage is located at an elevation overlooking a beautiful valley. The accommodation is very well appointed with three bed rooms and a huge drawing and dining. Early morning tea in the verandah, trekking in the tea garden and sighting wild Nilgiri Gaur in the estate were the highlights of our short stay. The cottage is looked after by a very affable family which is co-located in the compound. Steaming hot, delicious breakfast, lunch and dinner is prepared by the family on request. Considering its lovely location and good facilities, the charges for renting the entire property appeared to be quite reasonable. 

The view speaks for itself

Another view of the valley below

Tryst with Tiger. Daughter and family and the two of us left for the ‘Wilderness Resort’, Nagarhole early in the morning on 26 Dec as a part of our annual wild life trip. Both Akhila and Anirban are passionate wild life buffs. The resort is located at a distance of 195 Km from Bangalore on Nagarhole Road adjacent to ‘Veeranahosahalli Village’. After a sumptuous breakfast in ‘Kamat Upachar’ we reached the resort by lunch time. The condition of road to Hunsur and beyond has improved a lot, making the drive enjoyable. Including the BF stop, we clocked around seven hours. The December weather was extremely pleasant, especially inside the resort. 36 Km further on the same road takes you to the gates of the ‘Nagarhole Tiger Reserve’. The road passes through Nalkeri forest.


‘Wilderness Resort’ is a sprawling resort spread over twenty acres of forested area with every creature comfort to keep the guests happy and contented. The architecture finds a delicate balance between nature and functionality. The builders have ensured all their structures blend extremely well with the natural surroundings.

As you enter the resort through a specially designed gate, an enormous foyer welcomes the guests to the reception, sitting and dining area. The openness of the structure with its high ceiling, immediately unlocks one’s senses to merge with nature. 

There is a very well appointed ‘Activity Room’ with TT, Billiards and many other indoor games.  A small amphitheater is housed near the lobby for screening wildlife documentaries. It also has a party area with a pit for barbecues and bonfires. To keep the guest occupied, the resort has a cute swimming pool, a tall observation post and a rope way to slither across.

Huge and impressive facade

Tall and spacious foyer overlooking the party area, amphitheater and the barbeque pit

Well spread out cottages and suites

The Tent

A typical cottage

There are different types of accommodation from, Luxury Tents, Teak View Cottages and King, Queen and Master Suites. The accommodation is well spread out to enhance privacy and provide an uncluttered view of the flora and fauna. The rooms are really huge with spacious verandahs and some of them have a lovely open air bathing area.

Nagaraholemeans, Naga – Snake and Hole – Stream. The forest is situated in two districts of Mysore and Kodagu in the state of Karnataka. It was originally constituted into a sanctuary in the year 1955 covering an area of 258 sq. Kms and subsequently enlarged to include the adjoining areas of Mysore district and now extends over an area of 643.39 sq. kms which was given the status of a National Park in 1983.

The morning safari starts at 5.30 am and the evening one at 3.30 pm lasting a total of two hours. We did a total of 4 jeep and 1 bus safaris. On the very first day we were extremely lucky to witness a mock charge by a female elephant and for the very first time I heard an elephant’s shrill trumpet as she reached out to her herd. I was really scared to see an agitated elephant so close, in spite of our driver/guide assurances that it was only a ‘mock’ charge.

Inmates of the forest
Spotted deer

Admiring 

Most sought after
Crested Serpent eagle

Malabar Giant Squirrel
The deadly Gaur

 After the safari we were driving back to the resort and all of a sudden the jeep stopped and the guide showed us a tiger in a clearing. With the sudden surge of adrenalin, the excitement builds up and you feel totally elated. This was my first sighting of a Tiger in the wild and it was truly fascinating.


Waiting for the safari

Every evening we sat in the verandah and enjoyed the stillness of the forest and the tranquility that pervades any forest. Apart from going on all the safaris, the children thoroughly enjoyed being in the open.


We were extremely fortunate to have Mohammed Anees, a well-known herpetologist, take us on safaris. Anees is in charge of ‘Wilderness Resort’ and is passionately involved with wildlife. Being with Anees added a very special flavor to our stay. He kept us busy with his snake catching episodes, tiger sightings and other jungle tales. Anees has been associated with snakes since he was three years old and continues to be a snake saver.  In fact, in the CBSE syllabus, Class V students study a chapter on Anees called, “The Snake Saver”, introduced to create awareness about conservation.

The Legendary Snake Saver

In addition to being a snake saver Anees loves to cook. Mutton biriyani, specially prepared by him was our culinary highlight. The food in the resort is well prepared and tasty.


After three eventful days we left Nagarahole and Wilderness Resort completely satisfied.

Family gathered around a bonfire waiting for the year to end. We finally bid good bye to 2016 and ushered in 2017 by lighting a lantern and letting it loose to soar into the sky and shed light on all.
Cheers until next time.
Once again Happy New Year to one and all


We Visited Kaziranga – 31 Oct to 03 Nov 2016

After a hectic ‘Destination Wedding’ at Shillong we made our way to Kaziranga on 31 Oct. Normally ‘Kaziranga Forest Reserve’ is open to the public from 01 Nov every year; however this year they had opened the reserve a month earlier. We left Shillong around 11 AM and reached our guest house around 6 PM. The children stayed at ‘Wild Grass Lodge’. November to April is the best time to visit Kaziranga Park.


Kaziranga National Park is the oldest park in Assam covering an area of 430 Sq kms along the river Brahmaputra to the North and the Karbi Anglong hills to the South. Kaziranga National Park is one of the last areas in eastern India undisturbed by  human presence. It is inhabited by the world’s largest population of one-horned rhinoceroses, as well as many mammals, including tigers, elephants, water buffalo, panthers, hog, swamp, gaur and sambar, bears, and varieties of birds. The land is quite level all over the park, which is mainly covered by dense and tall elephant grass due to its flood-plain ecosystem. Located in the Brahmaputra Flood Plains of Assam, the park is prone to annual floods. During the monsoon season the rising water levels of the Brahmaputra and water flowing down from Karbi Anglong and Naga Hills through various rivers and streams inundate the low lying areas of Kaziranga. The normal inundation is important for maintenance of floral and fauna diversity in the park. The floods also recharge the water bodies and improve soil fertility.

The Great Indian One Horned Rhinoceros is the species that Kaziranga was established to protect and this species continues to be the focus of management and anti-poaching activities at Kaziranga. As a result, it harbours the single largest concentration of this species and its numbers today stand at around 1855.

One has the choice of selecting a particular range for the safari and rides. Central Range, Western Range and Kalapahar located at Kohora and Eastern Range from Bokakhat. It is better to discuss with the hotel staff and the tourism department and then select the ranges for your rides.  We were recommended to visit the Western and the Central Ranges both by Elephant and Jeep, Eastern Range only by jeep.

The best way to negotiate the park is either by jeep safari or elephant rides. Jeep safaris run both in the morning and evening, whereas the elephant ride is undertaken in the mornings only. One needs to book seats in advance. I preferred the elephant ride as it takes you closer to the animals. The elephants happily trample the tall elephant grass and take us just meters away from a rhino. The grass is such a good cover that a rhino might be standing twenty feet away from you and you would not know it. However, the jeep travels a larger area and the chances of sighting other wild life are greater. One morning we stopped at a ‘Tiger Corridor’ for a long time hoping to catch a glimpse of the exclusive ‘Royal Bengal Tiger’. The cacophony generated by the monkeys and the deer was very indicative of its presence.

Carry a good camera with zoom to capture these enchanting animals as they stroll lazily in the plains. Go on as many rides and safaris as possible, it increases the chances of sighting wild life. In any case the main purpose of the visit is to sight wild life and enjoy what nature has to offer. 

DRDA Guest House at Oriole, a government of Assam property, where we stayed was extremely homely and comfortable. Every evening we joined the children at ‘Wild Grass Lodge’ for dinner. The dining and the sitting area are large and well ventilated with a high ceiling. There is lots of space around the lodge for the children to run around.  The food is reasonably good considering its location.    
Watching a rhino in the wild is a different experience all together. The rhino has a thick, almost sculptured hide and reminds one of the armour that the knights of old would wear. They are far more peaceful than the hippo and may threaten to charge only if their young ones are with them. We saw one pregnant rhino, too huge to move, wallowing in a tiny body of water. She was not at all bothered by our presence and calmly continued wallowing. 

However it was a different story with Akhila. As their jeep was underway, a huge rhino crossed over to the road from the under bush and was extremely agitated to find a jeep within her imaginary safety arc. The rhino immediately assumed an attack posture,ready to charge. The jeep driver fully aware of the consequences quickly reversed the vehicle and withdrew to a safe distance.

Rhinos graze and roam around in the river plains with utmost ease and confidence, knowing full well, no danger lurks in the high grass. Except old age, flooding from river Brahmaputra and unscrupulous poaching they have very little to fear.

I now leave you to enjoy a bit of Kaziranga through my lens.

Water Body

Riverine flood-formed lakes known as, Beels

Totally silent and eerie

A lone Hog deer

A lone rhino

Shubs at the watch tower

By the lake

Boat used for river navigation

Another rhino

Jeep safari

Another hog deer

Wild boar

Finally the sun sets 

A lone elephant

Adjutant Stork on the tree top

A pregnant rhino waiting for her day

Taking her massive weight off in the pond water.

Herd of water buffaloes

Nair Sudhi and Jai

A rhino appeared from no where

Some more deers

A lovely sight of water body

A herd of elephants

Enjoying the moment

You cannot get any closer

A fascinating animal

The armoured plated rear

A close up

After a lovely dinner at the Wild Grass

The whole family

Really a royal animal

At the entrance