Golf in the Hills – Kodaikanal Golf Club

The club house

We have always travelled out of the country in the months of April-May. Due to Covid, our plans to visit Mexico in 2020 were shelved. Instead we have been taking short trips around Bangalore to beat the humdrum of lockdown. We went to Escape Vineyard in Chikkaballapur and Crepeginger in Koppa, Chikkamagaluru. Any trip out of your home town is always welcome. Travel rejuvenates one’s body and mind, provides an opportunity to bond with the family and enjoy new experiences. This time around we decided to drive down to Kodaikanal – “The Gift of the Forest”. I booked our accommodation at the Kodaikanal Golf Club (KGC). It’s a nine hour drive on excellent roads with stops for breakfast and lunch.

Family Breakfast at Addyar Anand Bhavan

KGC was started way back in 1895, which makes it 126 years old.  Located at an elevation of 7000 ft on an undulating hilly terrain of meadows and forested area. The 18 holes course spread over 100 acres, offers many complex challenges to any golfer. The fairways are broad and surrounded by tall trees. The approach to the green is tricky as the fairways carry steep gradients. I was fortunate to have Murugan as my caddy. With his vast experience as a golfer and caddy, he was able to guide me through the game.

With Murgan

You are not always alone on the golf course. Indian Gaurs are a regular sight on the course and they mostly come in the evenings to graze. A singular of wild boars are very common in this area. The greens are barricaded by heavy nets to prevent gaur and boars from trampling and digging. I was extremely fortunate to encounter a majestic bull gaur one morning near the 14th hole.

Heavy net on the left

Twins enjoying the golf trips

Beforehand, I had decided to take a buggy. As it turned out, it was a very wise decision. I played 18 holes on all four days of my stay. The game was easy and comfortable. I was able to concentrate more on the game rather than stretch my limited physical prowess. Unlike other city courses, the KGC does not attract many golfers. Normally there may be six to eight golfers on the course at any given time. My grand children joined me every morning for 9 holes. They enjoyed the buggy ride and helping the caddy. I met up with Mr G.S. Mani, the secretary of the club and the superintendent of the course, who was very proud of the fact that KGC is India’s first “organic course” and they have implemented ‘sustainable golf practices’. Less water usage, no chemicals and fertilisers for the greens, organic composting, keeping the local streams drinkable for the gaurs, is the mantra. Few ladies are employed to look after the greens. Each lady looks after two greens. They report at 8 AM and start their work. There is a sense of ownership in the work they do.A very good practice indeed.

Down Hill

Level ground

A city arterial road separates the club house from the course. The club house has an imposing grey stone facade. After the game, one can relax on the lawn looking at the superb view of the golf course. Family and children can take a shot at putting. As you unwind with a glass of chilled beer, a thick layer of fog descends and envelopes the entire area, rendering the atmosphere dreamlike. The club has five well appointed, spacious and clean rooms. History comes alive when you look at various old time photographs of Golf Captains and Presidents which adorn the walls. Anand, the care taker, went out of his way to make our stay comfortable. A sumptuous South Indian breakfast is served daily. One has to order lunch and dinner well in advance. We ate all our lunches in the city. Evenings were spent in leisurely walks on the golf course, sighting gaurs and watching fish swimming in the stream. By around 6.30 in the evening, Anand would have lit the fire in the hearth. There are hardly any visitors to the club. As the sun sets the entire club becomes yours to enjoy. I adored the ensuing peace and quiet. Sitting by the fire side and sipping your favourite elixir is the ultimate experience. Keep the dinner menu simple. Carry your own liquor and pay corkage. Life in the hills starts to slow down by sunset. It rained twice during our stay. The night temperature dips to 12 deg C at night.

View from the club house lawn

Well earned!!!!

Enjoying nature

The family and children went for a customary boat ride in the Kodaikanal Lake. More than the boat ride, I understand the boatman was an interesting old geezer. He talked at length on various topics, ranging from how youngsters take selfies on a boat ride to the ensuing elections and the state of the country at large. He said that often the selfie stick breaks sending the costly cell phones to the bottom. As the boat is moving, many ladies tend to put their hand playfully in the water and so loose fitting rings also meet the same fate. During the lockdown the boatman kept himself fit by swimming in the lake. He also used to dive to recover the goodies. He claimed to have recovered more the ten cell phones, restored them and then had sold them for quite a bit of money. The talkative boatman also had an opinion on India’s growth. He told them three things had grown in India after Independence – its population, politicians and pollution.

Mother and daughter bonding

Ayaan horse riding

Comic interlude

There are a number of restaurants to choose from. After a lot of research, my son in law Anirban who is a food critic came up with this list.

# Muncheez – Rolls, Burgers and Milkshakes

# 10 Degree – Comfort Cafe food

# Altaf’s — Mediterranean fare

# Cloud Street – Pizzas

# Cariappa – Cafe and bakery.

# Kodai Cheese – Cheddar, Parmesan, Gouda, Edam, Fata, Goat cheese and much more

 # Home Stay — We also visited “Dunnottar”, an outstanding ‘home stay’, for lunch. The bungalow dates back to the pre-Independence era. The present owners have restored the building tastefully, combining its old world charm with some contemporary comforts. If one is seeking a comfortable and charming place to have a relaxed stay, one should head for Dunnottar. The caretaker took us around as the owner narrated its history and other details to us over the phone. The home stay is located next to the lake, surrounded by tall trees and forested area. We thoroughly enjoyed a simple mouth-watering South Indian lunch prepared by their cook who has been with them for over three decades

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